Bow Box – Part 3: wrap it up

With all the simulated ribbons and bow parts ready to go, we can now “wrap” the box. I used cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to adhere the decorative parts to the box. When paired with an activator spray, the CA glue bonds instantly, eliminating the need for awkward clamps to hold the parts in place while the glue cures. If you either don’t have CA glue, or you’re not confident in your knowledge or skills using it, feel free to use standard wood glue, though the process will take longer as the different assemblies will have to dry before moving on to the next.

I started with the flat section of ribbon that runs end-to-end down the centre of the lid. The strip is mitred on both ends to connect with shorter sections that will continue down the sides. Using the table saw and a backer board attached to the mitre gauge to prevent tear-out, I cut the piece to length with a 45° bevel on each end.

I measured to the centre part on the lid and marked the edges with strips of painter’s tape. You could use pencil lines instead, but then you would need to sand off the markings afterwards. Once the location is marked, apply a few beads of CA glue to the underside of the ribbon strip. Lightly spray activator on the marked areas of the lid, then carefully press the part into place, using the tape as your guide. Since the bond is instant, you only get one shot, so make it count. Once the strip is secure, go ahead and remove the painter’s tape from the top.

Next, cut the sections of ribbon that continue down the sides. Bevel one end of the short section that will be attached to the lid to complete the connection with the long strip installed on top. This time I used a machinist’s square to guide the placement of the parts during installation. Apply CA glue to the back and bevelled end of the lid piece, spray the target areas with activator spray, then press the parts into position. After completing this process on both ends, you’re ready to move onto the sections that run from side-to-side.

The procedure for these areas is exactly the same, except the top section is made up of two shorter pieces that branch off at 90° from the centre strip. I positioned this run of ribbon slightly off-centre to help visually align the lid with the base when placing the top back on the box. To maintain a perfect 90° angle during installation, I used a flat plastic triangle square as a positioning guide. Cut the parts for the top and sides to length, then glue them in place using the same process as before.

With all the flat ribbon trim in place, finish sand the surfaces to prepare for the installation of the ribbon tails and the creation of the bow. The ribbon tails are easy to install – just apply glue to the underside of the mitred ends, then spray on the accelerator before tucking them into the corners where the flat ribbon sections meet. These parts help transition the flat ribbon into a more three-dimensional look to help enhance the wrapped gift effect.

When it comes to installing the bow loops, you can put the ruler away. This step is done entirely by eye. The bow consists of one centre loop that’s positioned vertically on end, surrounded by several more loops arranged in a circle on their sides, much like the petals of a flower. The orientation and number of these outer loops is completely up to you. On this box, I used five radiating from the centre, but I’ve made other versions with more or fewer.

Before gluing anything down, dry-fit the loops in place and play around with the layout until you find a configuration that looks balanced and visually appealing to the eye.

To install the centre loop, use a stationary sander to sand a flat area on the bottom of the loop where it will contact the lid. This will help create a stronger bond by increasing the surface area for glue. Apply CA glue to the flat section, spritz activator at the intersection of the strips on top, then press the loop firmly into place.

The surrounding loops are installed in a similar fashion, but this time sand a flat spot on the side of the loop, near the end that will attach to the box. Depending on how tightly you’re arranging your loops, you may find that they interfere with one another where they meet in the corners. If that happens, sand a slight bevel on the inner corners of the loops to help them nest more tightly around the centre loop.

Now that you’re armed with all this technical know-how, it’s time to put it into action, and get to work installing those loops to bring your beautiful bow to life.

Finishing

Applying finish to a project like this can be a challenge. Drips and runs are a real concern, particularly around the nooks and crannies created by the bow loops and ribbon tails. While it might be a bit unorthodox, I finished this box with cutting board oil. It’s simple, forgiving and gives the wood a rich, natural sheen. There’s not a lot of protection, but then again, this box doesn’t need a lot of protection.

Just brush on a generous coat and let it soak in. Be sure to work the oil into all the tight spots, such as under the ribbon tails and inside the bow loops. After about 15 minutes, wipe off the excess with a clean rag. Expect a little more oil to seep out from the crevices over time, so check back periodically to clean up any further finish.

If you’re anything like me, once you’ve built one of these intriguing boxes, you’ll want to make more, and experiment with different shapes, wood combinations and ribbon styles. Fortunately, you’ll have no shortage of friends and loved ones eager to receive one. These handcrafted treasures are gifts in every sense of the word.

With your bow box now complete, this project has one big advantage over other gifts – there’s no need for wrapping.